Cucumbers are at their best when they're about 10 inches (25 com) long, firm, bright green, and shiny. If the skin is tough, you can peel or score it; if the seeds are large, it will be worth the extra time to scrape them out.

Preparation and cooking time: 15 min
½ tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp salt
2 medium-sized cucumbers
¼ tsp ground black pepper
½ pint (275 ml) plain yogurt
2 pinches asafoetida (optional)
½ tsp garam masala

Dry-roast the cumin seeds and grind them into a powder. Wash the cucumbers and grate them through the large holes of a metal grater. Squeeze out the excess liquid and combine the grated cucumber with all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Toss. Serve chilled.

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